One is to loosen the screws holding the bottom hinge to the door frame just enough to slide a cardboard shim underneath the hinge. Any flexible piece of cardboard will be sufficient. Tighten the screws. If there is some, but not enough, improvement, loosen the screws again and fold the cardboard to increase the thickness of the shim. You can fine-tune the shim until the door stays open. The second technique requires that you remove the door pin from the bottom hinge.
Then bend the pin slightly by striking its head gently with a hammer on a hard surface such as concrete. Then tap the pin back into the hinge. The bent pin supposedly creates enough resistance to keep the door from closing by itself. Q: My mother is having carpeting installed in her upstairs hallway. The hallway floor squeaks when you walk on it.
How can she get rid of the squeaks before the carpeting is installed? A: Squeaks typically result when the subfloor starts separating from the floor joists. To end squeaks caused by large gaps beneath the floor, you'll need to fasten a piece of scrap wood against the floor joist so it fits snugly against the subfloor. The wood will support the subfloor, preventing it from moving down to the joist. If carpeting is being installed, your mother can probably attack the problem from above.
Find each squeak, then hammer a long finish nail into the floor so that it goes into the floor joist. If the separating floor and subfloor cause the squeak, two nails should be driven into the floor at opposite degree angles. Make sure that the nail head is driven below the floor surface so it won't pop up through the underlayment and the carpeting. Perhaps ringed nails would accomplish permanence. If your door has only two hinges, close the door and hammer a small wood shim near the top on the doorknob side of the door, between the door and the frame.
Tap out the hinge pin of the top hinge. Lay the hinge pin across two wooden blocks; its ends should rest on the blocks with an open area beneath the pin. Hold one end of the pin steady with pliers and hit the center of the hinge pin with a hammer.
One sharp tap should be enough to slightly bend the center of the pin, but if bending one pin doesn't fix your door, bend the others as well. Place the pin at the top of the door hinge and hammer it back into place. Short of an exorcism, is there an easy way to stop it from doing this? But, barring supernatural intervention, try the following trick: Remove one hinge pin from the door.
Place the hinge pin on a very hard surface, such as a concrete step. With a hammer, tap the hinge pin midway along its length, to give it a slight bend. Reinstall the hinge pin. Locate some shims or scrap pieces of wood you can use to gently slide under the door at its lower corner under the door handle. This important step prevents stress on the door and its hinges as you begin to remove one of the hinge pins.
Use a hammer and a flat-blade screwdriver to carefully drive the top hinge pin up and out of the top hinge. Take the hinge pin and hammer outdoors, to a garage or a basement and place it on a concrete floor.
Lay the hinge pin on its side on the floor and strike the middle of the pin with the hammer. This will put a nice bend in the hinge.
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